If you've never seen it, the first thing you should know about the Panama Canal is that it's not a canal. Not in the sense of a perfectly sculpted channel that cuts the Isthmus of Panama in two neat halves, through which large ships 
pass. It's more of a series of waterways — canals, yes, but also lakes and channels or rivers — with locks that raise and lower ships many feet en route to connecting two oceans, one of which is a mere eight inches higher than the other.
The Panama Canal is a marvel. It is a sight to behold. The reason it's a sight to behold today is that the Celebrity Millennium kicked off the Panama Canal cruise season a few days ago. It will be followed by about 200 more passenger ships in what is the Canal's centennial.
It turns 100 next August.
This was supposed to be a celebration marked by expansion. The expansion began more than six years and $5 billion ago and, like many constructions, it's a little behind. The latest estimate is that the new components of the Canal will be operational by sometime in 2015.
Subject to change, of course.
The Millennium is a Panamax ship, which every ship was 90 or 100 years ago (see SS Ceylon Maru in 1920). That means it fits. When the expansion is complete, cruise ships (also tankers and cargo ships) that currently don't fit will fit. According to the figures we've seen, there isn't one cruise ship in the world that's too long, but five of them are too wide (all from Royal Caribbean: Oasis, Allure, Freedom, Liberty, Independence), and a bunch more are going to find things cozy in the locks.
Depending on traffic (sounds like rush hour doesn't it?), cruising from Pacific to Atlantic, or vice-versa, takes about 14 hours. There are locks at both ends and a lake on top (Gatun) and when you allow yourself to wonder how this was built a century ago, it's a jaw-dropping experience to see.
We've seen it once, and can't wait to get back.
Ironically, our crossing was on the Celebrity Millennium. A good name for a ship kicking off the Canal's 100th season, don't you think?
Island Princess
15 nights
November 14, 2013
Los Angeles, Puerto Quetzal, Puntarenas, Fuerte Amador, Panama Canal, Cartagena, Aruba, Fort Lauderdale
Inside: $1,309
Cost per day: $87
www.princess.com